When cutting hair, it is important to assess the hair and decide what pattern you will use to create their desired look. Following a pattern will make sure you follow the appropriate steps so that you get the right look every time. For instance, this is my pattern for cutting a long-layered haircut.
I begin by first sectioning the hair and establishing a length. I then move to the front of the hair and decide if we’ll use a middle part, a side part, or bangs. At this point, if we have decided to cut out bangs, I do. If we have agreed on a middle or a side part, I will take a tiny section from both partings and cut out a guideline. I usually use points on the face for reference—the bridge of the nose, the tip of the nose, the lips, the chin, or below the chin, depending on what the starting layer will be.
At this point, once I’ve decided on the starting layer, I face-frame from the starting guideline and cut using the slither technique down to the length. For example, if the client wants short, shaggy layers with no bangs, I would cut the starting point at the bridge of the nose, then face-frame evenly on both sides. The same pattern applies if cutting on a side part; just keep in mind if you position it back in the middle, it will be uneven. Side part cuts should only be used on someone who always wears their hair to the side.
Now that I’ve done the length and the face-frame, I grab a one-inch Mohawk section from the front of the hairline to the crown right before it rounds to the back of the head. This one-inch section will be the shortest layer and will serve as the guideline for blending into the length. After I have cut my guideline, I divide it in half and begin to work on one side of the head. Taking one-inch pie sections, I carefully cut down to the length. If I’m working on the left side of the head first, I make a cut, then go to the same spot on the right side and do the same cut. This ensures balance and keeps the layering consistent. I then work beside that section, cut, and repeat it on the other side of the head. I continue this process until I reach the middle of the back part of the head.
Using this pattern for a shaggy haircut has never failed me. Whether doing a short shag or a long one, this technique ensures even and consistent results.
Hairstylist 101 Terminology
Slithering
To slither is to use the shear like a razor. Keep shear in a half-open position place on the guideline and lightly cut and allow the shear to slither and glide down the shaft to the desired shape.
Chipping
When chipping into the hair with shears or thinning shears you cut into the hair parallel and remove bulk and leaving ends with less weight.
Thinning
To reduce bulk, balance out heavy hair. texturize hair to give it a more of a manageable texture create a more flattering density.
Density
How thick or thin the hair is . to describe the amount of hair in the head
Blunt
The weight of the cut or the shape lies on a blunt line
Feathered
The ends of the hair have uneven lines like ends of a feather
Pattern cutting
To follow to get precise results on specific haircuts
Custom cutting
Using unconventional and creative methods to cut hair
Razor cutting
To make deconstructed funky lines in a haircut. Used to soften hard lines an to remove bulk in thick textures. They are extremely sharp and how you use tension will vary the effects.
Custom cutting is the art of making a haircut work on different people. Not everyone has the same shape of the head, nor does the same density of hair flatter every client. Custom cutting individualizes a hairstyle for someone. There are times in the art of hairdressing that you must modify, or even create, movement or disappearance in the shaping of hair.
Some of the greatest custom cutting shapes include mohawks, textured lobs, undercut wedges, bangs, and side-swept bangs/layers. People who are gifted with an exuberant amount of hair are also excellent opportunities for a custom cut.
I have a client I’ve been styling for five years who has an amazing head of course, thick hair. My favorite texture to shape and style. When I first started doing her hair, she stressed that she loved the length of her hair and wouldn’t mind layering it, but she needed its thickness considerably reduced. I decided we would cut about three inches from her overall waist-length hair and reduce the bulk of hair with a thinning/texturizing shear. I decreased her hair density by about 35%, especially in the areas where heaviness remains, such as the back crown, occipital area, and nape area.
Another example of a custom cut is the gentleman whose hair I’ve cut for the past eight years. He has an undercut and likes to get his center, longer hair texturized from the mid-shaft down, giving the ends a wispier texture.
As a hair artist, I prefer doing custom cutting because it allows me to give someone a more personalized look. By the end of your consultation with the client, you should know whether you’ll use a pattern cut or a customized cut, considering what the client expects and what you can deliver.
To achieve funky cut lines in a haircut or a deconstructed shape like those used in custom cutting, having different tools and knowing how and when to use them is key.
Using a razor alone for a haircut can be tricky; razors are sharp and the tension used on the hair will change the effect of the cut. A heavy tension will create a bulky, feathered tip, while a light tension stroke can create a more controlled, flowy, feathered look. Razors are excellent for side-swept bangs, softening a blunt line, and thinning out very thick hair. They are best used, in my opinion, after a scissor cut to detail any hard lines. I love to use a razor after the blow-dry to soften the edges of a haircut. I rake the hair between my fingers and graze the razor along my palm, skimming the last two inches of hair or less. This gives softer ends within a more structured cut.
There are also electric hot razors. These razors vibrate and heat up the blade. When cutting with it, the heat seals the cuticle and minimizes frizz on curly hair. It works particularly well with hair extensions and thick, one-length hair, giving soft, textured ends. Both handle razors and electric razors use the same replacement blades. Haircutting blades come in a pack and make needing a fresh one simple. You pull out a new blade, replace the old one, and continue cutting. You can even get temporary razors. These are razors built into a disposable handle so you can throw them away after they have become dull
Razors are great for custom cutting; using different tensions and strokes can create personalized looks. While I think it’s best to tread slowly, take advantage of willing clients and friends who would let you experiment. This is where creativity will take the lead and you’ll be having fun at work in no time.